Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
